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It's on my Patreon! Feel free to join the supporters to get the code.

It is shown in the video, written in the description and in the blog article on my website. I can not make it cleaner. 😄

Me too! More cool projects are waiting for to be developed!

Haha, thanks, I am glad that you like it! Yes, the Thorlabs tool is great but super expensive. I think my device is somewhere around $10, or maybe even cheaper. It does the same job.

Hi! Just the PCB is around $1 per piece in average. Together with the components, it is around $10-12, per piece. But I ordered small amount of parts which makes everything more expensive. If the production is scaled up, it can become much cheaper.

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Hi! I believe so, because it has a similar buck controller chip as the SZBK07. I actually started to work with one of those big 1500 W DC-DC converters a while ago, but reverse-engineering it took a lot of time and I lost my passion. Maybe later I will pick it up again.

Hi! Have you tried watching the video and reading my article?

@@CuriousScientistyes. And im rewatching and rereading. There is alot of info to process But i just need a clear information right now. : can i apply any voltage i want to AVDD within a certain range. and this voltage would be the adc reference voltage or atleast. It would be proportional to it ?

You cannot apply voltage to the AVDD pin on the board because it is an output. There is an onboard voltage reference chip.

@@CuriousScientist how is AVDD an output. You have A+ and A- which are the differential inputs. Then you need to power them. With some vdd and gnd. logically thats. AVDD and AGND

I just explained how it is an output. Read my answer again.

Hi! Thanks! I bought the board from Aliexpress and I don't know if it has any design files available. But the internet must be full of similar circuits.

Hi! It can be used for anything that needs control. 😎

@@CuriousScientist thank you very much

You're welcome!

and to your patreon!

Thank you for your support!

Also, and sorry about so many questions.With you current knowledge would you agree your setup could be simplified by just running the TECs at 12v?

Hi! I don't need a better TEC, because the ones I use are excellent for this task. Probably a fixed 12 V PSU would be enough. Actually, if you buy the PSU I use, you can slightly increase their output voltage to reach ~12.7 V.

Ah sorry, I rewatched your video and see that you mentioned this!

Yes, and it is on the way. I just need to find a way to attach/connect things together and then I will make a new video with the additional high-voltage field generator.

As long as you can reach below -25°C and you can maintain it, each additional cooler is just extra cost and complexity. It is not necessary, really. If you look carefully, my chamber is 20 cm x 20 cm, so it is 400 cm^2. And it runs with four coolers. 30 cm^2 is so tiny that you cannot even fit 9 coolers on it... Maybe something is wrong with your math.

@@CuriousScientist ah, sorry I meant 30 cm by 30 cm!

I would probably try to squeeze in extra two, yes.

Thank you!

What do you mean?

Hi and thank you! What do you mean by standardized model? Are you referring to some ASTM or ISO testing standard?

What?

For the top Peltier cooler, definitely. At least with this cooling arrangement.

If I remember correctly, the pump is a 100 l/h pump. Or 200 l/h. I am not sure.

It's in the video. Watch it.

What do you mean?

Sure, PCBWay can provide it for you with those things installed. You can ask them for partial assembly so they only install the SMD parts.

It is not falling down, don't worry!

Hi! Glad to hear that you liked it.

Thank you!

👍😎

Aliexpress.

Hi! If you use the exact same procedure as I did; same parts, same libraries, same code (my code), then it should work. Regarding the rotary encoder, it does not matter which is the CLK and which is the DT pin. If you swap them, you will only get the opposite behaviour, but nothing gets damaged. You can flip the wires and do everything as usual. S1 and S2 are CLK and DT and the key pin is the SW (switch).

Thanks and one more question . Stm32 does not have any function to digitalPinToInterrupt in the following line. attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(RotaryCLK), RotaryEncoder, CHANGE);

What's the question?

I got an error that stm32 blue bill does not understand digitalPinToInterrupt as its defined before in the following line of code. attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(RotaryCLK), RotaryEncoder, CHANGE);

Probably a bracket ("{" or "}") is missing somewhere. Check the code.

I already have done it on a much more professional microscope. 😎😉 Check my earlier videos.

Hello there! Thank you very much!

Hi! It is clearly explained in the video and the corresponding article on my webpage.

I always emphasize in my experiments, that the hot side should be outside the cooled space. I just didn't have the opportunity to run meters of hoses to have the radiator outside the room. Maybe a better concept is leaving your fridge door open. It would dump the heat to the same environment that it tries to cool. I am also always monitoring the room temperature to account for the change if there's any. But most importantly, I always emphasize that Peltier coolers are not suitable for building ACs. I even have "debunking videos" with meticulous measurements to prove that those "Peltier AC" videos with millions of views are fake and misleading people. Also, a bigger mistake is that people run their Peltier coolers at their may rated current. They don't know the science of these devices, they just see that the more current they provide, the colder it becomes, but that is only true up to a certain point. Also, a colder surface is not equal to more heat transfer. People neglect (or simply don't know) these facts. So, reflecting on your idea, they should *never* run at their full capacity. There are too many "would" words in your sentence. People often come up with their ideas, but even after years, they do not present their results.

If you check my other videos, you will see that I have already built it, as well as a full frame scanner camera. 😎

It is also a good idea. Or you can add a plastic sheet, too.

What???

This should be hassle-free. Magnets losing their magnetism sounds weird. By any chance, did you heat the magnets up to 3-400°C? Or, were they exposed to any other magnetic fields? These Nd-magnets should sustain their magnetization for quite a long time. But yeah, as you mentioned, if they are some cheap garbage, they might not perform very well.

@@CuriousScientist I wrote the message on a phone. The magnets didn't lose power, i was wondering if the Chinese ones did. I did try to get the aliexpress sensor from your affiliate site, but didn't see the link from your site. New sub anyway.

They should be fine. I have had a few of these sensors for years and they still work perfectly. Regarding the links I don't know which page you were looking at but both the AS5600 circuit and the magnet separately are shared with a very clear picture under the parts and tools page. I even categorized my links and put the sensor in the "motors and related circuits" category.

@@CuriousScientist That is where i went wrong. I only looked in sensors and not the motor section. I just found them.

No worries! Glad you found them.

I hope you found it useful! Cheers!

I am in Sweden, so it might be a bit too pricy to ship anything to me (shipping + also customs).

Sure, I remember you from the early days. I have difficulties imagining your project but if you have any videos to share or any kind of documentation, please feel free to do so.

Then there's still something that you didn't do properly.

Ok got it , when you are using 8mb display you have to save .icm file as 23 instead of 32 , that is what causing that issue

Nice to hear that you figured it out

Hi! You just need to turn on the corresponding LED when a certain threshold value is met. It can be done with simple if() conditions.

@@CuriousScientist yes i tried but it doesn't work. What data should i take from the sketch avgUSV? or uSv? or what?

Well, it is up to you if you want the most recent reading or the rolling average to be used as a threshold. I cannot guess what you want, sorry.

@@CuriousScientist ok thanks

Because that's not how stacking works.

Hi! Where exactly do you see those 4 potentiometers?

@@CuriousScientist I got mixed up looking at the lower circuit diagram thinking the 100k and 10k components labeled corse and fine were pots and not simple resistors.

I see. No worries!

Hi! I think it should work.

Hi! Remove the parts of the code that make it wait for the "s" character from the serial port. Basically, just remove that if() condition. Don't forget about the curly brackets.

@@CuriousScientist Thank you solved!

You solved it, I just guided you! 😎 Cheers!

Hi! It is a stencil, and I got it with the PCB together. You can also get it when you order it from my PCBWay project page. Also, as far as I know, they are not machined but laser cut.

That's really awesome! Thanks for the reply. Love your work sir. 👍

Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

A good air cooler is enough for most of the Peltier coolers. But only one unit per CPU cooler. I have several videos where I use CPU cooler to cool a Peltier cooler.